Mayonnaise in Russia

[Larry]

Understanding Russia's obsession with mayonnaise

It’s a love affair that began in Imperial times, survived the Soviet Union and continues today. But is it really necessary to have mayonnaise with everything?

On a crisp autumn night in central London a group have gathered to discuss an age-old Russian affair: a shared love of mayonnaise.

The crowd is dominated by Russian expats living in London. The venue is Pushkin House, set up in the 1950s as meeting place for all of those interested in the country’s culture.

So is the ubiquitous condiment really that popular? An emphatic yes from (almost) everyone present.

Mayonnaise was introduced to imperialist Russia at the turn of the 20th century and it remained a stalwart throughout Soviet times. Mass-produced and durable, it was everywhere – from workers canteens to households that didn’t have an abundance of fresh food. Today the average Russian consumes 2.5kg a year, using it as everything from a salad dressing to a bread spread.

— Russian Revels (@RussianRevels)
October 20, 2014
mayo- the marmite of russian marriage?talk one,12 Nov @Pushkin_House w @JWEremeeva @thekompass http://t.co/ngVOt3vLU2 pic.twitter.com/BDsxDjz6Ma

The evening is chaired by Karina Baldry, who says she loves “everything to do with emulsified eggs”. Baldry explains that culinary life when she was growing up was all about tins and jars with an occasional bit of salami. You could only get certain foods if you had the right connections. Mayonnaise was only “randomly available in the 1990s, so I bought up all the stock I could find”. Did anyone ever make it? No, they really liked the jars, she says.

Baldry only realised how zealous she was when she married a British man who failed to share her passion – although she insists that her food is never “swimming in it” just “lightly dressed”.

Her co-chair, Jennifer Eremeeva, is an American who married a Russian while living in Moscow in the 1990s. She say she became interested in food because “it was one of the only things about Russia I could control”. She now runs a blog about Russian life, majoring on food and culture.

Eremeeva went to Russia in 1978 and witnessed the food scene change after the fall of the Soviet Union. There was excitement about grapefruits and Baskin Robbins. More recently sushi became the rage, now even low-fat products are widely available, she says.

She’s not so sure about the need for mayonnaise with everything. “I like it but it has its places, in sandwiches ... not to hide flavours or as a dish lubricant,” she says. Egg mayonnaise, tuna sandwiches or potato salad – ok. In soup, on fried eggs, or as a marinade – not ok, she writes on her blog.

“Food is great way in to a culture”, says Eremeeva, paying tribute to the “Slavic soul of hospitality”. When someone cooks you a dish “it’s like someone is inviting you into their house and asking you to put on their slippers,” she adds.

The evening, organised by post-Soviet food enthusiasts Russian Revels, explores many aspects of Russian life - just not politics. The discussion briefly touches on the sanctions imposed by the Kremlin in August in responses to international sanctions over Russia’s role in the violence in Ukraine: there is talk of supermarket shelves stocked with “Belarusian mussels” – despite the country being landlocked – and “Siberian mozzarella”. Some think sanctions will be the death knell for the foodie culture, others think they will allow Russian producers to come into their own.

Talk quickly turn to shuba, a Russian speciality otherwise known as “herring under a fur coat” – a layered salad of pickled herring, hard boiled eggs, potatoes, beetroot, carrots and onions with mayonnaise squirted liberally throughout.

Eremeeva denounces the dish as “a culinary crime … a metaphor for everything that’s wrong with Russia”, triggering a round of (light hearted) boos. “Beets and herring shouldn’t go together”, she says. But she is very much in the minority.

This prompts others to share their mayonnaise crimes: Kate Chernyshov, a Brit who lived in Russia in the early 90s, described going to friend and being served a meal of Brussels sprouts and mayonnaise. Eremeeva shared her mother-in-law’s specialty dish – “French meat” – which involved slathering meat in mayo and baking it for hours.

But for every crime someone claims a culinary triumph. Alexei Evstafiev, a Russian who has lived in London for eight years, outlines his mother’s recipe for spit roasted chicken. The secret? A coating of mayonnaise. Baldry adds it when baking biscuits or chocolate cake; she also puts it in soup. Ukrainian Oksana Dmitriyeva, who has been in living in the UK for 14 years, says she likes to mix mayonnaise with sour cream as a dressing or add to fried liver to soften it up.

Mayonnaise is not the only fixture of Russian cuisine under discussion. Soup is also a highly protected craft which, according to tradition, should only be blended if the person eating it is ill. And of course there’s dill – which Russians seem to love above all else. Expats living in Russia have suffered so severely from its overuse that they have set up a Facebook group, DillWatch, which has more than 1,000 members who share pictures of “inappropriate” uses of dill.

http://www.theguardian.com/world/2014/nov/21/-sp-understanding-russias-obsession-with-mayonnaise

There really is a "Dillwatch" page.

What do you think of mayonnaise?

[Bruce Lee]

There really is a "Dillwatch" page.

I've gained an appreciation for the stuff in the last few years - goes into most things we cook

What do you think of mayonnaise?

My misses very rarely uses it, when she does she prefers to make her own!!

[AvHdB]

There is simply only one way to way to eat herring and that is salted upon catching with some onions.  preferably with a Brand bier afterwards 

As for mayonnaise if you follow the recipe it is still mayonnaise, but I must admit Helleman's is quite good. The real stuff is best on frites with mussels. But it is something that I use for seasoning/sauce (same with ketchup) once a month.

What is served in Holland is not mayonnaise, sort of mystery jello fat or perhaps it is bearing grease.

In Ukraine there is also a sort of dill addiction, sort of like paparika in Hungary.

[Larry]

What do you think of mayonnaise?

My misses very rarely uses it, when she does she prefers to make her own!!

Homemade mayonnaise is excellent.  You can add whatever flavors you like, such as garlic for an aoli.  I had never seen mayonnaise made at home until about 20 years ago.  I had gone out with a chef a few times and she was visiting me to make me dinner. She asked me if I had a whip.  I replied, "Yes, but I don't think we know each other well enough for that yet."  (I just want to make clear that I was joking; I didn't have a whip). What she learned in Culinary School to call a whip most of us know as a whisk.  She proceeded to use a whisk to make the mayonnaise.  It was fairly hard work but it tasted great.

Some people might enjoy Japanese style (Kewpie) mayonnaise.  It's made with rice wine vinegar and is tangier than Western mayonnaise.  You can find it in Asian stores and probably also in grocery stores with a good selection of international foods.

As for mayonnaise if you follow the recipe it is still mayonnaise, but I must admit Helleman's is quite good. The real stuff is best on frites with mussels. But it is something that I use for seasoning/sauce (same with ketchup) once a month.

I too love to dip frites in mayonnaise.  For those readers who haven't heard of frites they are the excellent twice-fried fries (chips) that are popular in Belgium and neighboring countries.  I try to avoid potatoes because they are high in carbs, but every few months I indulge.  There is a good Belgian bistro not too far away that prepares excellent frites.

[AvHdB]

I too love to dip frites in mayonnaise.  For those readers who haven't heard of frites they are the excellent twice-fried fries (chips) that are popular in Belgium and neighboring countries.  I try to avoid potatoes because they are high in carbs, but every few months I indulge.  There is a good Belgian bistro not too far away that prepares excellent frites.

So everyone understands frites or pommes frites are close to English chips but not as soggy and undercooked. I suspect the English only fry them once.

French Fries are abut the same shape/size as what you get in the Golden Arches but are in fact from real potatoes and quite common as bistro food in France. 

[Orchid]

I use mayonnaise only in Russian recipes because I want to have the same taste of Russia in my American life.
In my new cooking experience I never use mayonnaise. Greek yogurt is an excellent substitute to it.
I have about 500 cookbooks in English. I am excited to try something new during break.
But....... first will be "котлеты по-киевски", or Kiev's kotlets. Damn....I do not know how to translate it.

[Larry]

I have about 500 cookbooks in English. I am excited to try something new during break.
But....... first will be "котлеты по-киевски", or Kiev's kotlets. Damn....I do not know how to translate it.

It's something like Kiev cutlets I think. What meat will they consist of?

[Orchid]

I have about 500 cookbooks in English. I am excited to try something new during break.
But....... first will be "котлеты по-киевски", or Kiev's kotlets. Damn....I do not know how to translate it.

It's something like Kiev cutlets I think. What meat will they consist of?

It is chicken stuffed with mushrooms and other things.
It is cooked very fast. The main thing to have it very juicy inside.
I am thinking to create a thread "What are you cooking now......." 
You know, I am Russian. I would like to compete with an UW in cooking Kiev cutlets.
Is there any UW available for competition?

[2tallbill]

I have about 500 cookbooks in English. I am excited to try something new during break.
But....... first will be "котлеты по-киевски", or Kiev's kotlets. Damn....I do not know how to translate it.

It's something like Kiev cutlets I think. What meat will they consist of?

It is chicken stuffed with mushrooms and other things.
It is cooked very fast. The main thing to have it very juicy inside.
I am thinking to create a thread "What are you cooking now......." 
You know, I am Russian. I would like to compete with an UW in cooking Kiev cutlets.
Is there any UW available for competition?

Angel Eyes makes this with beef or pork and calls it cutlets. It's very tasty 

[Larry]

I have about 500 cookbooks in English. I am excited to try something new during break.
But....... first will be "котлеты по-киевски", or Kiev's kotlets. Damn....I do not know how to translate it.

It's something like Kiev cutlets I think. What meat will they consist of?

It is chicken stuffed with mushrooms and other things.
It is cooked very fast. The main thing to have it very juicy inside.
I am thinking to create a thread "What are you cooking now......." 
You know, I am Russian. I would like to compete with an UW in cooking Kiev cutlets.
Is there any UW available for competition?

I would be happy to serve as judge.

But if not, you could post a photo of the dish and we could at least see it, if not taste it.

[Orchid]

I have about 500 cookbooks in English. I am excited to try something new during break.
But....... first will be "котлеты по-киевски", or Kiev's kotlets. Damn....I do not know how to translate it.

It's something like Kiev cutlets I think. What meat will they consist of?

It is chicken stuffed with mushrooms and other things.
It is cooked very fast. The main thing to have it very juicy inside.
I am thinking to create a thread "What are you cooking now......." 
You know, I am Russian. I would like to compete with an UW in cooking Kiev cutlets.
Is there any UW available for competition?

Angel Eyes makes this with beef or pork and calls it cutlets. It's very tasty 

Russian cutlets are great!!! But it is different recipy.
And your AE is from the same region of Russia as me. So, we, probably, cook the same way.
I want UW for competition!
I want a cooking war!!!

[Dogsoldier]

I have about 500 cookbooks in English. I am excited to try something new during break.
But....... first will be "котлеты по-киевски", or Kiev's kotlets. Damn....I do not know how to translate it.

It's something like Kiev cutlets I think. What meat will they consist of?

It is chicken stuffed with mushrooms and other things.
It is cooked very fast. The main thing to have it very juicy inside.
I am thinking to create a thread "What are you cooking now......." 
You know, I am Russian. I would like to compete with an UW in cooking Kiev cutlets.
Is there any UW available for competition?

I think you mean Chicken Kiev?

Are you opening another front in the war?   

[Orchid]

I have about 500 cookbooks in English. I am excited to try something new during break.
But....... first will be "котлеты по-киевски", or Kiev's kotlets. Damn....I do not know how to translate it.

It's something like Kiev cutlets I think. What meat will they consist of?

It is chicken stuffed with mushrooms and other things.
It is cooked very fast. The main thing to have it very juicy inside.
I am thinking to create a thread "What are you cooking now......." 
You know, I am Russian. I would like to compete with an UW in cooking Kiev cutlets.
Is there any UW available for competition?

I would be happy to serve as judge.

But if not, you could post a photo of the dish and we could at least see it, if not taste it.

Larry, you are the best judge in the world!
You are so good that you do not have to be graduated from a Law School for this competition!
Yes, of course. We will post pictures, recipies, and any special secrets.... Even if it is special activity after dinner..... 

[Orchid]

Are you opening another front in the war?   

Yes, I do!!! 

Hmmm............. Where did I say it before?...... I was in front of a judge too, I believe.

[Dogsoldier]

Are you opening another front in the war?   

Yes, I do!!! 

Hmmm............. Where did I say it before?...... I was in front of a judge too, I believe.

Oh dear.

[AkMike]

My dearest wife makes wonderful Chicken Kiev! But when I was there before we were married I asked for her to make it for me.. (I'd heard of it but never tried it) She got a perplexed look on her face and said ,"Why would you want chicken from Kiev? We have local chickens here in Cherkasy!"
  Then it dawned on her what I meant..  We still giggle about this when she makes it.

 I prefer the General's Meat myself. Tenderized chicken or pork covered with onions, tomatoes, pepper, mayo and cheese. Cook for 30 minutes in the oven at 350f.

[Larry]

I too love to dip frites in mayonnaise.  For those readers who haven't heard of frites they are the excellent twice-fried fries (chips) that are popular in Belgium and neighboring countries.  I try to avoid potatoes because they are high in carbs, but every few months I indulge.  There is a good Belgian bistro not too far away that prepares excellent frites.

So everyone understands frites or pommes frites are close to English chips but not as soggy and undercooked. I suspect the English only fry them once.

Fish and chips is my favorite British dish (unless you count Chicken Tikka Masala). Let's say it's my favorite traditional British dish.  I love the tasty fish fried in a light, crispy batter.  But I prefer pommes frites over British chips.

[Mikeav8r]

I too love to dip frites in mayonnaise.  For those readers who haven't heard of frites they are the excellent twice-fried fries (chips) that are popular in Belgium and neighboring countries.  I try to avoid potatoes because they are high in carbs, but every few months I indulge.  There is a good Belgian bistro not too far away that prepares excellent frites.

So everyone understands frites or pommes frites are close to English chips but not as soggy and undercooked. I suspect the English only fry them once.

Fish and chips is my favorite British dish (unless you count Chicken Tikka Masala). Let's say it's my favorite traditional British dish.  I love the tasty fish fried in a light, crispy batter.  But I prefer pommes frites over British chips.

I echo this sentiment...although I have never tried the Chiken Masala that I can recall.  I always have fish and chips whenever I visit an Irish pub.

[Mikeav8r]

I prefer the General's Meat myself. Tenderized chicken or pork covered with onions, tomatoes, pepper, mayo and cheese. Cook for 30 minutes in the oven at 350f.

That sounds quite tasty.

[sashathecat]

We like to hoard five gallon tubs of mayo in the pantry just in case there is a natural disaster. Running out of the substance might be catastrophic.

[AvHdB]

Chicken Kiev can be quite good - it is on my favourite list.

There also is Cordon Bleu.

And there is Beef Stroganoff, which while it has smetana is quite good if there is enough spicy mustard in it.