Enjoying the Russian dining experience

[Larry]

Almost all of the Russian foods the author mentions can be found discussed in other threads, but this is a nice rundown of foods the author tasted in Russia.

Food for thought: Enjoying the Russian dining experience

Not all borsch and caviar: Our freshly repatriated expat takes us through what he misses (and doesn’t) in the restaurants, cafes and kiosks of Russia.

Eight years ago I didn’t really have any idea of what Russian food was like. I knew borsch, caviar and black bread, but I knew little of the culinary wonders awaiting me, many of which I now miss terribly.

Street Food

Being a poor, newly graduated student, my first year in Russia was not my most affluent. Not being a fan of McDonald’s (of which there are plenty, even in tiny towns like Novocherkassk), I often found myself turning to street food for a quick bite to eat between classes.

Top of the list for me were blini (pancakes), filled with any number of delicious ingredients, sweet or savoury. Mushroom, sour cream and cheese was by far my favourite, mostly for its miraculous hangover-easing properties. I would also often turn to kartoshki (baked potatoes). Though essentially the same as you might get in the UK (see John Mole’s book, I was a Potato Oligarch, to see why that is) these are topped with not one, but up to four unrelated fillings, and why not? Who hasn’t dreamt of having salmon, cheese, pickled mushrooms and bacon all on one cheese and dill-smothered potato?

Then there were shawarma (kebabs), which are as greasy, foul-smelling and unhealthy as their British cousins. To give you an idea of how “good” these are, an expat friend of mine once told me how a half-starved homeless dog by the metro even turned its nose up at one she’d offered it.

Most evil of all were sloyki. These factory-made little savoury and sweet pastry slices (think Greggs, only much, much worse) can be found being heated in tiny kiosks near metro stations, where their sickly smell chases you down the step to the station entrance. At just 30 roubles (40p) each, however, they were at least warm and filling in times of desperation.

Know your 'Meat'

It’s worth mentioning that one commonly found sloyki filling is 'meat.' What animal(s) this comes from, however, is never very clear even if you dare ask. These, I found, were best avoided.

Another dish me and any expat with working taste buds avoided, though it is loved by many Russians is kholodets. This disturbing-looking savoury jelly of shredded 'meat' suspended in murky-coloured gelatine is as revolting, in both taste and texture, as it sounds. I guess this is Russia’s equivalent of jellied eels or haggis - not everyone’s cup of tea. Incidentally any Scots visiting Russia should know that for most Russians the words haggis sounds suspiciously similar to a well-known brand of babies' nappies, Huggis. Even if you go to the trouble of explaining to them that the savoury snack is Scotland's national dish and show them one of the small, pungent sacks of stuffing, they'll turn up their noses and ask with an incredulous look: "Is it really edible?" At the same time the vast majority of them will happily tuck into kholodets.

There were, however, many times where a more open approach to carnivorous recipes was a great adventure. Horse steak in Kazan, bear burgers in Novosibirsk and elk jerky in Tyumen were all well worth trying.

When none of this tickled my fancy, I could always turn to vegetarian options, though that was difficult seven or eight years ago, when even the mention of vegetarianism in class caused distress. One student asked: “What’s wrong with you; don’t you want to be a man?” Today non-meat options can be found in many of the larger cities, some of which even have thriving vegetarian restaurant chains.

Eating Out

Traditional Russian restaurants can, naturally, be found all over. Along with a plethora of soups, each delicious in their own way, bar okroshka (a cold soup made from fermented bread, cut meats, cucumber and tons of dill), pelmini (Russian ravioli) tops my list. Warm, wholesome and delicious, these really help keep of the winter chills.

However, it’s sushi that tops the list of most popular food in Russia by far, and it’s served almost everywhere, from Italian restaurants to Irish pubs. It’s not quite what Japanese would call sushi (in the same way Indians might see British curry), but it is good stuff and was a regular part of my Russian diet.

Georgian cuisine has also seen a huge increase in popularity recently. I loved dipping my khachapuri (cheese-filled bread) in adjika (hot and spicy sauce) and stuffing myself with khinkali (large dumplings). These three dishes are what I miss most about no longer eating out in Russia.

Sweet beyond reason

To say Russians have a sweet tooth is a huge understatement; the inch of sugar at the bottom of virtually very Russian’s teacup speaks for itself. Along with a huge variety of biscuits and mini cakes k chayu (to have with tea), I had some of the creamiest and sugary cakes I have ever eaten. In many cases it would be better to say these were more cream than cake.

Something I could not fault, however, was Saint Petersburg’s pyshki (ring donuts). Simple and delicious, these are best eaten fresh, on the go.

Of all the things I thought I might miss in Russia, food was not one of them. Over these last couple of months in the UK, however, I’ve really got cravings, so if anyone knows where to get a good khachapuri in London, do let me know.

http://rbth.com/opinion/2014/11/13/food_for_thought_enjoying_the_russian_dining_experience_41371.html

I share the Russians' reaction to Haggis. 

[AKA Luke]

Those sloyki aren't great, who knows how long they've been sitting there for. I know my stomach didn't approve.

[MrMann]

Kholodets is nothing like haggis!

[Larry]

Kholodets is nothing like haggis!

I took the author's discussion about these dishes to mean merely that each was considered unappetizing by most foreigners.

[mhr7]

Not being a fan of McDonald’s (of which there are plenty, even in tiny towns like Novocherkassk)

I still haven't eaten there yet.

[MrMann]

I took the author's discussion about these dishes to mean merely that each was considered unappetizing by most foreigners.

Ah yes, you're right, I mis-read it while skim-reading.

The Huggies thing has been commented on to me before.

[AvHdB]

Kholodets is nothing like haggis!

Fortunately there is nothing like haggis.

[MrMann]

I can only assume you've had poor quality haggis, or allowed the story of how it was traditionally cooked to affect your taste buds.

As a vegetarian, haggis is one of only two things I miss (the other being square sausage).

[AvHdB]

Kholodets is nothing like haggis!

Fortunately there is nothing like haggis.

I can only assume you've had poor quality haggis, or allowed the story of how it was traditionally cooked to affect your taste buds.

As a vegetarian, haggis is one of only two things I miss (the other being square sausage).

Unless I am mistaken (and I am confident some one will point out my errors) I did not deride the national food of Scotland.

For what it is worth not everyone enjoys herring in The Netherlands.

[MrMann]

True. I just got used to people knocking it.

[Ste]

I love Haggis! But I hate Black Pudding.

[Manny]

I can only assume you've had poor quality haggis, or allowed the story of how it was traditionally cooked to affect your taste buds.

As a vegetarian, haggis is one of only two things I miss (the other being square sausage).

I used to have a girlfriend from the Highlands, she insisted on feeding me proper haggis and Lorne when up there. It was all rather yummy as it goes.

[Ste]

I love Haggis! But I hate Black Pudding.

Love proper Scotch Pies too but not too fond of battered Mars Bars.

[Larry]

I can only assume you've had poor quality haggis, or allowed the story of how it was traditionally cooked to affect your taste buds.

As a vegetarian, haggis is one of only two things I miss (the other being square sausage).

I had assumed haggis was still cooked in the sheep's stomach but after reading your post I looked it up and I see that it's now generally put into sausage casings.  It occurs to me that many readers in North America might not know what haggis is.  It's sheep organs - heart, liver, and lungs, with oatmeal, fat, onions, and stock, traditionally cooked for several hours in the sheep's stomach.

Black pudding is blood sausage (made with pig's blood). I've never had it, but I've seen it on one of Anthony Bourdain's shows and it looks better than it sounds. If Americans want to try it you can find a similar product, morcilla, in Latin American markets. One of our members regularly eats it and finds it delicious.

I don't know what Lorne is.  I tried to look it up but the first three pages of a Google search didn't turn up anything useful.

[MrMann]

Lorne sausage is another name for the square sausage I mentioned: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lorne_sausage

The description of haggis doesn't do it justice (unless you're a fan of old style meat dishes), it's essentially just mince, oatmeal and spices.

Ste, a bad Scotch pie swimming with fat was what finally pushed me over the edge and made me vegetarian.

[Manny]

Calories aside, the many hours drive north I used to do was made easier by the thought of a proper Scottish breakfast fry up in the castle kitchen the next day. There is some good grub up there. But they do have a propensity to fry everything.

[AKA Luke]

Lorne sausage rocks MrMann, haven't seen it or had it for years. The fact it's always frozen down here doesn't fill me with confidence though.

Larry you should try some black or white pudding, it's nothing to write home about as such, but is great in an English breakfast with a mug of Tea.

Scottish breakfast is also good, scotch potato and lorne sausage.

[AKA Luke]

Calories aside, the many hours drive north I used to do was made easier by the thought of a proper Scottish breakfast fry up in the castle kitchen the next day. There is some good grub up there. But they do have a propensity to fry everything.

Even pizza I'm lead to believe.

The battered chocolate thing  (Mars bars etc) is meant to be massively popular but I suspect it maybe be urban legend. Perhaps you Scots could put me right. It's  rather rich and sickly but I don't mind it now and then.

[Ste]

Calories aside, the many hours drive north I used to do was made easier by the thought of a proper Scottish breakfast fry up in the castle kitchen the next day. There is some good grub up there. But they do have a propensity to fry everything.

Even pizza I'm lead to believe.

The battered chocolate thing  (Mars bars etc) is meant to be massively popular but I suspect it maybe be urban legend. Perhaps you Scots could put me right. It's  rather rich and sickly but I don't mind it now and then.

I've seen it and had it. Lived in Dumfriesshire for ten years. Our local chip shop had them, pizza slices and even pies covered in batter.

Whole pies!

Cannae whack a guid Scots Fish Supper tho!

Never liked Lorne sausage but all my kids so, and they prefer it frozen in slabs from Farmfoods.

Bucky, though English is loved by the average Scots Ned, I think it's vile.

However, before I went teetotal I could demolish four Blue Tennents Super, has to be done at least once in your life...

[AvHdB]

Even pizza I'm lead to believe.

You have not had pizza until you have had a pie in Connecticut.

[Larry]

Even pizza I'm lead to believe.

You have not had pizza until you have had a pie in Connecticut.

I have long wanted to try a New Haven (Connecticut) pizza but I am banned from the State of Connecticut.

[MrMann]

Even pizza I'm lead to believe.

The battered chocolate thing  (Mars bars etc) is meant to be massively popular but I suspect it maybe be urban legend. Perhaps you Scots could put me right. It's  rather rich and sickly but I don't mind it now and then.

It's a bit of an urban myth really. Some places do it, and some people eat it, but it's not that common.

Deep-fried pizza was actually invented in Naples.

[Donhollio]

 So is this the Scottish dining experience thread? 

 I always got a kick from the FSU dining experience when the food would just randomly show up in front of us. One person got the salad, another the main course, the other a drink. And on it would go until everyone had what they ordered. If you found a hair in the food you just pull it out and continue eating.
 Generally service was fine in Ukraine, I ate where the locals dined for the majority of my restaurant meals.

[MrMann]

So is this the Scottish dining experience thread? 

I could talk about the Scottish restaurant in Moscow instead. Or the Scottish pub.

[Dogsoldier]

Black pudding is delicious. I knew a guy who used to pop down to the abbatoir to pick up fresh blood and make his own black pudding.
Simply lip smacking.