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Author Topic: To Togliatti and back - a 2 week adventure  (Read 1653 times)
GreyScales
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« on: June 23, 2008, 09:30:00 PM »

My Trip Report:

   What happens when everything you know, think you know and don't know; all come crashing down around you in a big heaping mess?  Read on to find out  Smiley

   Being a non-international traveler – this trip was going to be interesting.

   Not only was this to be my first time seriously away from home, but I would be in a country that spoke little to no English.  In a place I could not really read the signs or anything.  If I was any more helpless someplace, I couldn't think where.

   I will admit that I had no idea how to pack for this trip.  IF G. and I got on well, I'd be going to Turkey – and it's bloody hot there.  There's no way I could justify dress clothes in Turkey – I'd roast.  So, like a complete dummy, I packed 2 complete sets of clothes – one for Russia and one for Turkey.  My main bag weighed over 70 lbs.  And I had 2 hanging clothes bags.
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GreyScales
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« Reply #1 on: June 23, 2008, 09:38:39 PM »

30 May 2008 – the flight(s)

   Day 1 of my travels was like any other “flight” day.  I'd stayed up late the night before doing last minute packing and trying to prepare.

   My flight was to leave at 11:50 am Detroit time.  So I figured 3 hours before the flight is when I should be at the airport.  This left me leaving home around 8:30.  With a quick stop on the way to get roses for G. and her mom.  I'd purchased cardboard tubes larger around than a rose wrapped in tissue.  To my amazement, the tube the florist had seen 4 days earlier and approved of turned out to “almost” be too small for the final flowers.  We shed the outer plastic wrapper and went with tissue and a ribbon only.  I did get extra water tubes – the tubes on the flowers should feed them for about 20 or 24 hours.

   The trip from Detroit to Atlanta was no big deal.  I've been on these kinds of flights before and this was pretty much a “standard” flight.  I did notice that there was a couple traveling to Moscow with me.  I didn't get a chance to speak to them or anything though.

   Atlanta is pretty much like any other place.  The airport is like every other I've been in.  Traveling internationally, I decided to partake of the Duty Free shop and pick up a last minute “gift”.  In this case, Godiva cookies.  They would go well as dippers for coffee, and G. and her mom both drink coffee.  It was  interesting that they don't give you your purchases at the Duty Free shop.  They hold them until you board your flight – giving them to you on the jet way, a new experience for me.

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   The gate in Atlanta where I awaited my flight was a trip.  The entire area was FULL of Russian speaking folks.  This was to be my “first” experience with feeling like a fish out of water.  I could not understand 99.999% of what was being said by anyone.

   The plane was a Boeing 767 pretty much packed from one end to the other.  I had picked seat 19-G, an “exit” row seat according to Expedia.  It turned out, 19-G on this plane was not an exit row – but 3 rows forward of the exit.  My window seat afforded me a nice view of the side of the right engine.  Trying to plan ahead, I'd brought sleeping pills and an inflatable pillow – to make the trip more bearable.  And they didn't help!  I dozed on and off through-out the 10 hour flight.  Watched a couple of movies and “tried” to read my book.

   Arriving in Moscow, I did what I had read – left the plane quickly and headed down to passport control.  And this is where I made my biggest mistake of the trip (up to this point that is...)

   In the passport area, there is a sign that says if you are connecting to an Aeroflot flight, and your bags are checked thru to your destination, you don't need to stop off at passport control – just go to the connecting area and your off to your flight.  If you don't follow the directions on the sign, according to the sign, you will have to have “lost and found” find your bags and have them accompany you to your connecting flight.

   I read this sign and remembered that the agent in Detroit said my bags were checked all the way thru to Tolyatti.  So, and this is where I messed up BAD, I followed the signs directions and went looking for the connecting flight.  BOY, BIG mistake.  They don't take international passengers and move them to other “domestic” cities.  The sign was for “international” passengers passing thru SVO-2 and didn't apply to me.  So, back down to Passport control – except this time, I was at the back of a crowd with several hundred folks.

   Making matters worse, there was a line for “diplomats,” 2 lines for “regular” passengers not declaring anything and 1 line for Russians.  I “think” the Russian line was for folks who were declaring things – but am unsure.

   And SO MANY people!  We were pressed shoulder to shoulder in the passport control area.  And for the most part, not moving.  My first exposure to a group of natives – and it has to be a crowd stuck waiting for passport control to wave us thru!  (sigh)  Not a “proper” way of saying “hello” to Russia – if you ask me Smiley

   Once thru passport control, I found my bags and prepared to make my way to SVO-1.  Unfortunately for me, my large suitcase was damaged by Delta!  Ruined!  I didn't lose much from inside the bag, fortunately.  But the bag would have to be replaced.- in Russia  Sad

   Exiting the baggage area was a trip.  So many smokers.  Taxi drivers as far as one could see.  I hadn't seen the Aeroflot connector inside the airport, so I was kind of lost.  And the taxi drivers could sense this.  Not wanting to mess with the connecting bus, I opted for a taxi and the few dollars it cost.  Yeah, I know – a cost I didn't need to incur – but I saved me the embarrassment of searching for the correct connecting bus.

   Catching the bus from SVO-1 on my way back home is going to be fun.  Not being able to read the signs makes things tough.  I guess I will have a great deal of learning to do...

   Oh my god!  What gives with the taxi driver and his driving?  Its only a short drive and this guy is going as fast as he can!  And the other drivers on the road don't seem to be going any slower!  Of course, there's construction in the area – and that doesn't help (I think.)  Weaving in and out of traffic and pretty much on the bumper of the driver in front of us!  I'm amazed the driver isn't all over his horn to get to SVO-1 faster.

   SVO-1 is like any other airport I've ever been to, pretty much...  Except this place is a “Russian” airport.  By this I don't mean to disparage Russian airports.  But to say that the airport reminds me of everything I'd ever head about Russia and Russian efficiency.

   My flight arrived in the morning and I was in SVO-1 by about 12:30.  But my connector didn't leave until 2:30.  And looking around at the signs didn't help – NONE of them talked about my destination: Samara.  Asking didn't help either – no one had any clue.  Of course, I'm speaking English and few, if any, understood my mid-western accent.  A kind lady finally determined that the Samara flight would be ticketed thru booth 27 or 28.  But not till closer to 2:30.

Note to travelers...  When you are at the Moscow airport, do NOT attempt to locate your plane until close to your departure time.  The agents have no clue when other planes to other destinations take off.  So wait patiently for your city to be posted.

   Having passed thru the x-ray machine and put myself in the ticketing area, what exactly was I to do for close to 2 hours?  Sit on a metal seat and wait!  I broke out my book and tried to read...  The same page consumed me for about 25 minutes – rereading the same few paragraphs.  I think my lack of sleep didn't help.

   Time to people watch...

   I had read that Russian moms are “very” good with their children.  That they do a good job of keeping their kids close and content.  Time to see if what I'd read was “true”...

   Close to me was a man with a small boy.  I didn't see “mom” anywhere close.  Every time I looked up, the boy was running around getting into anything and everything.  One time, the child ran up the stairs that lead to the lowered numbered gates and stood at the top of the stairs blocking everyone.  A little later, I found out dad and child were from Lebanon – so he's NOT a good example of a Russian parent.

   Later, after I'd put my bags thru to Samara and was waiting at gate 12 to depart, a young lady with an infant sat next to me.  And YES, she was really working at keeping the child content and quite.  She spoke a little English and we spoke for a few moments about her baby – only 6 months old (born New Years eve.)

   I'd noticed her clothes.  They looked clean and well maintained.  I did notice a spot on her skirt that looked frayed – but I only really noticed it because I was looking.  Her diaper bag was clean, but looked as if it had seen other babies before this one.  The wrap holding the infant to mom was something I'd not seen before.  It looked like it made it easy for mom to carry her child.  I suspect if mom was breast feeding, the way this carrier was built, it would make that activity “easy.”

   I noticed a few other mom's with kids.  And each one seemed to be working hard keeping their children close and “happy.”  The only child that was mis-behaving was the fella from Lebanon...

   Oh...  Clothes...  What am I missing here – everyone was dressed well.  A number of suits on the men.  Dress shirts and slacks.  The women were almost all in dresses.  And here I am in jeans and a relaxing shirt.  If I was more “obvious” that I wasn't Russian – I'm not sure how I'd have advertised the fact.

   To my left was a gentleman who appeared to be on a business trip.  He noticed me and asked me something in Russian.  I politely mentioned to him that I did not speak Russian, sorry.  He spoke a little English and we spoke about work and Moscow and being from outside Russia.  Very nice man.

   I noticed an elderly lady standing very awkwardly near me.  She looked tired and frail.  Being a gentleman, I got up and offered her my seat with a wave of my hand.  She took it and, I think, said thank you in Russian.  I apologized to her that I didn't speak Russian.  The man I met earlier spoke up and commented, that I was an American.  I only know this because he told me what he said and that she thanked me for the seat.

   The flight to Tolyatti (it's properly spelled Togliatti – or Толья́тти  using the Russian alphabet...) was on a Boeing 737 operated by Aeroflot.  The plane wasn't empty, but it also wasn't so under capacity that people could switch seats freely.

   Seated next to me were 2 lovely Russian girls.  In the center seat was a mom in her early 20's with a 3 year old boy on her lap.  On the isle was a girl who couldn't have been 19.  I had the feeling the child was going to be a problem – but was mistaken.  With the exception a fussing a little, he was quite good – if more than a handful for mom.  I tried a couple of times to be “polite” and help (the boy was dropping magazines and such.  So I'd help pick them up and help her out.  She seemed thankful.  But she knew I wasn't Russian because I'd asked her during one of her son's fussy moments if she spoke any English – not surprisingly – nope (нет).

   My flight didn't actually go into Tolyatti itself.  Apparently the closest airport I could fly into is a place called Samara, the administrative capital of Samara Oblast.  Tolyatti is not far from Samara – but they apparently are in two different “districts.”  I calculated the distance at about 40 miles or so between the two cities.  Since I'd already gone thru Customs and Passport control in Moscow, this was strictly a domestic flight – so it was no big deal to fly in.

   I did notice something right away, even before I left Moscow, that did surprise me quite a bit: walking up a ramp to board a plane actually happened out on the tarmac.  Forgive me, but I've not really had much experience with “walking” to a plane.  Unless it's a severely regional plane here in the U.S., every plane I'd ridden on went down a jet-way to be boarded.

   In Moscow, I  noticed a number of planed parked some ways from the terminal.  I noticed folks boarding buses and heading out to board their flights.  This seemed a bit strange to me at the time.  It became even more strange when I arrived in Tolyatti and deplaned my flight – to board a bus for the ride into the terminal.

   And who ordered up the Russia Military???  Yup!  Just as soon as the door to the plane opened, even before we were allowed to get out of our seats, there were two Russian military folks on-board.  I have no idea what they wanted, but it seemed quite cordial and routine.  A delay of a minute or two and we were allowed to deplane.

   The arrivals area in Samara is quote small – really not much more room that it takes to pass passengers thru a building with 2 luggage belts – one at either end of the building.

   And the Taxi drivers!  Again with the Taxi drivers!!!  Come on people!  Do I look that much like a tourist??  Apparently yes Sad  I was blessed to have someone coming to meet me and give me a lift into Tolyatti so I could ignore the taxi drivers.
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GreyScales
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« Reply #2 on: June 23, 2008, 09:44:20 PM »

31 May 2008 - First impressions of Russia and my trip to Tolyatti.

   Vlad!  Oh my god am I glad you were here to meet me!!!!

   Vlad is an older gentleman – I'm not sure of his age – maybe his late 40's or early 50's...  I am a terrible judge of such things.  The man was very thin but with a hand shake that left no doubt he was solid muscle.

   Vlad speaks a little English and a little German – or so I was told.  I was a little reserved at riding with him.  Not for fear of anything, but because I'm not one to really talk much to strangers.  But this wonderful man did everything he could to put me at ease – right from the moment we met!

   We'd retrieved my bags from the carousel and Vlad insisted on grabbing the biggest, heaviest single bag.  I thought he was crazy at first – I'd lugged these bags enough already to regret packing them, and here's Vlad grabbing my bags and hustling me out to his car.

   Looking around the parking lot at the airport, I was a little nervous!  Every car there was what we Americans call a “sub compact.”  How in the world were we going to get my big suitcase, 2 hanging clothes bags, carry on and laptop bag into a sub-compact?

   It turns out Vlad drives a Toyota Corolla!  This thing has a trunk!  With the exception of my carry-on and laptop, everything fit nicely in the trunk.  You go Vlad and your Corolla!

   I'm not sure exactly what I expected to see when I finally made it outside an airport in Russia.  You see, I was a part of the generation that was in the military in the early 80's when Russia was the “enemy.”  I remember hearing all the propaganda of the time, read all the articles put out by my government and even voted for Ronald Reagan – twice.

   I guess, in the back of my mind, I was remembering everything from that time.  So, in part, I was looking for the “obvious” signs that I was in Russia.  Maybe I was looking for some of the propaganda I'd heard back in 1980 about Russia – Police check points, papers please...  Something.

   What I saw reminded me of home.  Well, almost of home.

   The signs were all in Russian (that was different.)  The radio announcer(s) all spoke Russian (that was different.)  Much of the music I initially heard was Russian – that too was different.  But if you took away these “small” differences, you could have easily looked out over the landscape and not known you weren't in any part of the mid-west.

   Well...  Almost.

   One of the biggest things I noticed while in Moscow was the driving.  And that appeared here on the way from Samara to Tolyatti.  Vlad is not a bad or reckless driver by and stretch.  But WHO'S in charge of these roads???  Where are the lines that divide the lanes?  The white line that divides traffic in each direction is there, but what about the line that separates my lane from the lane next to me?

   I found out later that the lines are usually painted once a year and by early spring, the weather has washed them all but away.  Most Russian drivers are used to not having lines, and drive accordingly.  It was commented to me that the biggest “failing” in the Russia, according to a native Russian that is, is the roads.  The are/were put in and are poorly maintained.  The only roads that get much care are the main ones.

   I had already discovered that speed limits are “voluntary” - except if a cop is around.  This pretty much feels like home.  Vlad didn't speed as much as drive “fast.”  And he'd noticed a cop some ways off and had slowed down – I assume to avoid a traffic ticket.  I found out later that Russia had instituted mandatory seat belts and that the police were out enforcing this new law with a vigor.  The penalty was something like 35 rubles.  Not expensive, more a hassle.

   Vlad pointed out a couple of things to me and asked me what I thought of Russia...  I gotta say, the ride from the airport was simply amazing.  Like I said, I felt like I was at home!

   At one point in the ride, Vlad communicated to me that I was to look in the glove box at the music CD's in there and possibly pick something out.  What a treat...  Several western music CD's.  I had to bust on Vlad for the likes of Tina Turner and an 80 “hits” CD.  Vlad indicated the CD's were his daughters – left in the car.  I wondered later, when my brain was working on more sleep and less jet lag, if Vlad's daughter left the CD's in the glove box as a way of helping me feel comfortable so far from home.  If she did, I have to say it helped!

   Vlad indicated he liked Tina Turner and so that was our music of choice for the trip from Samara to Tolyatti.  Vlad even tapped in rhythm on the steering wheel to a couple of tunes.

   It was a fun ride.  Vlad welcomed me to Russia and pointed out a few things – including some cows grazing by the side of the road.  I noticed the trucks seemed a bit different from the ones I'm used to back home.  They look similar – but different.  One big difference is how loads are tied down.  In the states, I suspect every one of these trucks would be pulled from the road and prevented from hauling until their loads we better secured.

   It seemed every truck I saw was covered in dirt.  From one end to the other.

   The roads were another big difference.  I was told later by G. that they do not take care of the roads in Tolyatti very well.  There are pot-holes in many side roads that are not really taken care of.  I saw this first hand many times when drivers swerved at the last minute to avoid big holes in the road.

   The road from Samara to Tolyatti was in pretty good shape.  You could tell that a lot of traffic ran over this road as there were shallow ruts from weighed down vehicles in each lane.  This isn't anything I haven't seen here at home – but most of the ruts I've seen were on thinly paved dirt roads.

   My hosts at the agency had arranged for a cell phone for me to use in Tolyatti.  A new SIM card had been inserted into the phone and some amount of minutes added.  It seems “odd” to me to have to pay for minutes in advance, but I understand such things.  Having a month to month contract at home, the “benefits” of pre-paid are evident.  In addition, I was told incoming calls are “free” - good system!

   I programmed in G.'s cell number and the number of the Agency – just in case I got into trouble.  Since I only had “international” versions of both, that's what's in the phone.

   As a side note...  What gives with the American SMS system???  The cell phone I had had the ability to send like 900 character SMS messages!!!!  Back home, we are limited to 160.  I *like* the extra capacity!!!!

   My destination in Tolyatti was the Park Hotel.  The Park Hotel sits in a park right off of the Volga river.  Next to it is a golf course.  There is at least one trail leading towards a local monument / park.  There are a ton of Poplar trees on the property and early June is seed time.  The floating white seed pods are everywhere – and the bloody things stick to everything.

   The Park Hotel bills itself as a somewhat “western” style hotel.  I'm not sure if it is or isn't.  The room I got was about 7 feet wide and maybe 20 feet long.  The room has it's own bathroom – but it's closer to a “water closet” than an American bath room.  The bed is small – a single – but comfortable.  There is no closet – just a credenza for my clothes.  No dresser either.  The room isn't wide enough for a dresser.

   The bathroom has the oddest setup.  There is a sink and a stand up shower and toilet – all as I would expect anywhere.  There is a towel rack that is heated too.  I can only assume to help dry whatever is hung on it.  And then there's the faucet – what an odd device.

   I am not used to a dual purpose faucet – feed water into the sink AND the shower.  It was the oddest looking thing I had ever seen.  I'm used to having separate controls in the shower.  In fact, I'm used to having separate plumbing to the shower.  But, apparently, in Russia, the same faucet feeds the sink and shower.

   I can see how this would make life easier – why not have the sink and tub/shower next to each other.  One set of plumbing and you can easily feed both.  What are the chances your going to need the sink when the shower is active and vice versa.  The bathroom is small enough that you really aren't going to fit 2 people in there at one time.  Although it is possible to have one person showering and one on the toilet.  But, like in America, don't flush the toilet while the shower is active.

   I noticed on the wall next to the toilet a set of very warm pipes.  My towels were laid out over these and were nice and warm.  I discovered later this isn't something unique to the hotel.  I saw the same thing in the Apartment of G.'s mom.

   The Park Hotel has Wi-Fi internet.  It's not cheap - about 100 rubles for 50 minutes usage.  The speed isn't all that great and the hotel itself isn't responsible for the wi-fi service – so you have to call others if it's not working.  And good luck there – the service reps don't speak much English.
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GreyScales
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« Reply #3 on: June 23, 2008, 09:53:46 PM »

31 May 2008 – Meeting G.

   Near the time for my departure for Russia, G. had indicated that she wanted to meet the night I arrived – Saturday – instead of waiting until the following day.  My suspicion is she wanted to see if she was really someone she could see herself with.  Since she was just beginning a 2 week vacation, if I was ugly or something, she could run away and have a vacation with little loss to herself.

   She also arranged for an interpreter.  This was a kind of odd situation really.

   I had contacted an agency in town and they had interpreters available.  The cost is $14 per hour.  A little pricey, but how do you put a price on communication?  I was told G. was arranging an interpreter so she had control over who it was.  I remember being told G. wanted an old, ugly, woman – someone with no teeth.  I think she wanted to insure I looked at only her – especially given almost all interpreters in Russia are female.

   The interpreter G. found ended up being the girlfriend of her cousins friend.  Tatiana is a young girl.  I'd estimate her at being maybe 20 or 21.  She is somewhat “cute”.  She dressed “very” conservatively!  I'm not sure if that's because G. wanted her to, or if she felt she needed to...

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   Tatiana is still in University.  I don't remember what degree she said she was trying for.  Her English was passable – but not the kind of English I would expect from someone who speaks it all the time or even often.  Was she the “perfect” interpreter?  No.  But I must admit this girl busted her butt the whole time she was around!  Even though it took a bit for her to get used to my speaking and my American “accent.”

   I had been “warned” by the agency that G. looked “significantly” better in real life than she did in her pictures.  Having seen a number of her photo's, including a glamor set shot 2 years ago, I was already prepared for the worst!

   Speaking of Photo's...  G. had sent me a few “small,” e-mail, sized photos over the months that we had been talking.  Most of the shots showed me a pretty girl having fun.  Most didn't give me a feel for what her face and eyes looked like – at least not close up.  The funny thing was, in the photo's I'd seen, G. looked like 5 different girls.  (I found out later that others have commented about this as well...)

   At one point, I was very “nervous” about meeting this girl.  Given how she looked so different in the various photo's, “who” was she?  Was it possible I was being “scammed”???

   It wasn't until a few days before I left that I finally got “new” photo's of G.  And ones that were clear and showed her eyes.  I must say, the newest pictures were pretty good.  If she looks better in real life...

   Our meeting was set for late Saturday night.  G. had to work that day and wanted to go hone, shower and get ready.  She and the interpreter would meet my in the lobby of the hotel at around 8 pm.    As the appointed time approached, and passed, I was getting nervous – no G. and no Tatiana.  I noticed is was still somewhat lite outside, and wondered if the girls had gotten distracted.

   I had been loaned a cell phone so I tried to call G.  Needless to say, phone numbers in Russia, or at least in Tolyatti, are different that in the states.  I remember seeing signs everywhere that had 6 and 7 digit phone numbers on them.  I tried the last 7 of G.'s cell phone number – and was greeted with the “universal” BOY, are you a moron???  Do you even know how to dial a working number???  -  message coming from my cell phone – except in Russian!

   Not sure how “late” the girls were going to be, I decided me and the rose from America would wait in the lobby.

   The lobby of the Park Hotel is fairly nice.  Its wide open with 2 seating areas – one on either side of the main entrance.  Off to the one side is a table with a few chairs.  I choose there to sit, and stand, and sit....  to wait.

   A few minutes passed and I felt my cell phone go off in my pocket.  I had not noticed the 2 ladies approaching the front doors, but as I grabbed my phone to answer, in walked G. and the interpreter.  It was funny to see G. handing her phone to the interpreter to tell me they were in the lobby – just as I was seeing them, and they me.

   Oh my!  The “warning” that G. was better looking in person was “significantly” off!  Either that, or the source of the comment under estimated how good this girl looks when she's dressed up.

   Let me see if I can paint you a picture:  5 feet 9 inches tall.  Dark brown hair just touching her shoulders.  A little bit of a wave or curl – but not much.  Eyes a very light green!  A Black gown with wide shoulder straps.  The smallest amount of coloring on her eye-lids.  A little bit of blush on her cheeks.  Pink / red lipstick.  High heels.  A white knit shawl / jacket covering her shoulders and arms.

   She'd told me what her “size” is – in its European measure – which I've converted into its American measure.  If this girl is that size, I'm missing something.  I have to believe she's at least 2 sizes smaller – MINIMUM!!!

   When I first noticed G., there was something about her that caught my eye.  There was something about “her” that I had not seen in the girls back home.  It took my brain a moment to recognize it – Poise.  Grace.  Femininity.

   American women are feminine, don't misread what I'm writing.  What I'd noticed about G. and some of the other Russian women I'd seen is feminine on a different level.  As if “feminine” is a part of her very core, and she knows it and isn't afraid to embrace being feminine.

   When G. and the interpreter were walking into the lobby, I remember being mesmerized watching her walk.  I'd seen women “strut” before.  Especially women who thought they were “special.”  But to see G. strut and walk, I realized what I was seeing wasn't a women with her nose in the air.  This wasn't a girl who thought she was better than everyone else.

   One my way to the airport Friday morning, I had stopped at a florist and had purchased 2 red roses.  My thinking at the time was, if G. and I got on, one would go to G. and it's match would go to mom.  I had brought one of the roses with me to the lobby.

   As we approached each other, I reached for her hand and gave the back of it a very gentle kiss and said “hello” to G.  I was given a brief “hug,” in return for the rose I brought G.  I explained that the rose came from America and was a “gift” to her from my home.  She smelled the flower with closed eyes and smiled.  I got a thank you in return.

   We adjourned to the hotels first floor “bar” to talk and spend time.

   G. had been out “shopping.”  Apparently it's tradition to give gifts when you meet someone for the first time.  G. had purchased me a bottle of Cognac, a “coaster” with a picture of a local church, a box of Russian chocolate candies and a chocolate bar.  I had sent G. a box of locally made chocolate from a store close to home for her birthday.  G. had said she had enjoyed the chocolates I'd sent her.  The candy for me was her way of giving me a taste of her local sweets.

   Our meeting was “awkward”...  Both G. and I were nervous.  We shared a bottle of Champagne and even had a toast or three.  I have no idea now what we talked about any more.  I only remember talking to G. and touching her from time to time.  Her dress was stylish, with open shoulders and her upper back exposed.  As we sat talking, I would lightly touch her arms or gently and lightly run my hand up her back or over her shoulders.  For the most part, I think G. enjoyed being touched...

   G. wasn't interested in sitting in the hotel bar.  At one point, she mentioned going dancing.  Of course, this would mean trusting myself into her hands alone as the interpreter wasn't able to stay with us.  She needed to go home and make dinner for her boyfriend.

   G.'s English and my Russian are on par with each other – very few words!

   It only took me a few minutes to decide that having a go at a disco with G. was an experience I needed to have.  Our language differences would have to be conquered.

   2 taxi's ordered and we said good night to the interpreter.  We'd meet her again the next morning.

   Side note:  I didn't realize it at the time, but, apparently G. had decided in the hotel's bar that I was worth having around because when we were making arrangements to part with the interpreter, we were planning on meeting the next day.  I remember G. saying in one of our phone calls that if we didn't have “chemistry” at our meeting, we would part company.  She'd said that “only” if we had chemistry would we have a “second” date.

   I have no idea where the taxi took us – somewhere in the city.  I remember the “disco” was a pirate themed club, and is one of the most popular clubs in town.  This was to be my “first” exposure to a “Lada” taxi.

   During the ride G. and I cuddled in the back seat.  She smelled her rose from time to time and smiled.  When we arrived at the club, G. went to get money from her purse to pay the taxi.  Being a gentleman, I said “нет” and reached for my wallet.  The look I got was priceless.  (You know you are a part of “pop culture” when a real life moment reminds you of TV.  But this was one of those moments captured by the MasterCard TV commercials.)

   Having no idea the cost, I let G. fish out the correct amount to pay the driver.  I exited the taxi and offered my hand to G.  I got her purse instead, as she slid across the back seat towards me.  A second extension of my hand and out came G.

   The front of the club looked like any other “club” I've ever seen:  Parked cars, BIG Neon sign.  The one difference I noticed right away was there was no line waiting at the door.

   When we entered the front door, I was surprised to see no one except employees in the lobby.  It was about 11 pm and here we were at a “popular” club, and there was no line.  G. spoke with the door man and he disappeared inside.  It was a few minutes before he returned and we were let into the club and shown to a table upstairs.  Looking around us, I noticed tables with groups of people eating and drinking.

   Our waitress came by real quick and she and G. spoke about G.'s rose.  The waitress wanted to put the rose in a glass with water, but I pointed out the water bottle on the bottom of the rose.  In the end, the rose was placed in a large “vase” provided by the waitress.

   It turned out, our time in the “disco” was to be my “first” exposure to the changes happening inside Russia.

   When the waitress brought menu's, G. mentioned to the waitress that I didn't speak Russian – only English.  I only know this because I heard “Americanski” and what I thought was the word “English.”  The waitress opened my menu and pointed out the English pages at the back.  This was a great relief as we had no Interpreter at this point and it would have been really awkward ordering a drink in English and hoping” for the right thing.

   Early in the evening, my in country cell phone went off.  It was an SMS from the “agency” asking me how it was going and how I was doing.  It's funny, I had just “attempted” to take a picture of G. – only to cut off part of her head in the attempt.  Of course, G. had to return the favor by snapping one of my “trying” to navigate an unfamiliar cell phone to reply.

[ IMAGE NOT SHOWN - GUESTS CANNOT VIEW ATTACHED IMAGES ]

   One of my favorite photo's of that evening is the second one of G. that I took.  Looking into her eyes I could tell she was “happy.”  Not necessarily happy with “me,” but happy with “life” and such.  Here I had traveled ½ way round the world, we'd met and now I had accepted her suggestion to go “dancing.”  The smile on her face in that photo strikes me as being very genuine.

   I will admit here that I'm not much of a dancer.  I never really had much call to learn or practice over the years.  I can slow dance fairly well, having learned the basics over the years.  But the faster stuff???  Not really!  And G. LOVES to dance!  Oh my, does she LOVE to dance.

   The next several hours are a blur!  Quite a bit of time dancing to the fast music.  Me sweating up a storm!  A couple of “slow” dances with G. close.  Even the occasional time of G. resting her head against mine.

   The “event” of the night was a woman who was wandering thru the club and decided she wanted to dance with me.  And this girl absolutely did not want to take “no” for an answer.  I suspect she was somewhat intoxicated!  She even tried to get G. to come dance with her – and this girl was persistant.  It took a bit, but this girl wandered out onto the dance floor by herself.

   Was she put off by the fact that neither G. nor I wanted to dance with her?  NOPE!  I know that because G. and I were back out on the dance floor a song or two later and this woman was behind me dancing with “us.”  And I could tell she was dancing with me/us because I felt her hand on my back from time to time.  The look on G.'s face was just priceless!  She was rolling her eyes and laughing at the antics of this woman.

   But I also got the feeling that G. was not overly interested in letting me dance with this usurper either...  I don't recall how I learned it, I think it was the interpreter telling me the next day some of the things G. was saying about the “disco,” but... I seem to recall that G. made it clear that she felt this woman was trying to cut in on her and take her dance partner.  I also seem to recall a comment being made that I was being “watched” by the other women on the dance floor.  The “3rd” that we had picked up stayed with us off and on for about ½ the evening.

   The club has it's own dancers and they perform shows and do their own singing and dancing.  That night there were 2 really good female dancers on the stage, and these girls could dance!  There was one dance number the performers did that was right out of the American Old West – The Can Can!  The old time skirts!  The petticoats!  The tossing and dance moves.  It was spectacular!

   G. and I watched this from the balcony up on the second floor.  G. was clapping and dancing to the music.  I even mimed and joked with G. that we should try the tossing and such.  She laughed and said no – but with a big smile.

   After a few drinks, and a lot of dancing, it was time to call it a night.  We climbed into a cab for the ride back to my hotel.

   The ride was quiet on G.'s and my part.  We simply sat in the back seat cuddling, holding hands and enjoying each other company.  G. had put her purse between us so we couldn't site quite side-by-side, but I did manage to put my left arm across her lap (she was on my left in most of the cab rides.)  Her free arm would entwine around mine from time to time, or she and I would hold hands.  I rested my hand on her leg and she didn't move it – a good “sign” if you will Smiley

   I noticed G. smelling her rose a few times.  Each time she would smile, toss her head back a little and would say “good” with her Russian accent.

   I was treated to G. laying her head on my shoulder a few times during the ride.  But the roads were so bumpy that she had to lift her head or risk getting bruises.  Having had a few drinks, I suspect G. wasn't as much worried about a bruise or two – she seemed to enjoy being “close.”

   When we arrived at the hotel, I again pulled out my wallet so G. could pay the Taxi driver.  I was given a parting kiss...  Or, more accurately, I was able to kiss G. good night on the cheek.  G. and the taxi continued their journey towards G.'s home.

   When I got back to my room, I remember thinking about all the things I had seen.  I was amazed that I was actually in Russia!  Immersed in a culture I had no clue about, couldn't read the signs, understand the language, nothing!  My head was spinning with all of the “input” I had received over one afternoon/evening.  And this was only the beginning of my 2 week “journey.”
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« Reply #4 on: June 24, 2008, 01:18:19 AM »

GS, this is very enjoyable reading and we're looking for more!  It is so nice that it seems like your trip went well thus far.
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« Reply #5 on: June 24, 2008, 02:52:21 AM »

Hi GS

What a fantastic blow by blow account of your first arrival to the country I now regard as my second home  Smiley

So many of your comments on your first impressions have brought back memories of my first visit, please do not make us wait to long for your next installments as i am sure we are all dying to know more.

As for me my journey is progressing well, and we are both now in the planning wedding stage of our relationship  party0031

8 Days until Elena arrives in the UK.

22 Days until we both travel back to the south of Russia. (Home)  8)

Mark
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Married and loving it Smiley

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« Reply #6 on: June 24, 2008, 09:32:43 AM »

G.S.

   I am sooooooooooooooooo envious. 

   Don't keep us hanging too long with your TR.  Excellent reading, my man.
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« Reply #7 on: June 24, 2008, 09:33:22 AM »


 So, back down to Passport control – except this time, I was at the back of a crowd with several hundred folks.

Making matters worse, there was a line for “diplomats,” 2 lines for “regular” passengers not declaring anything and 1 line for Russians.  I “think” the Russian line was for folks who were declaring things – but am unsure.


You're mixing up two different institutions: passport control and customs control.

Passport control indeed has (in ANY country!) 3 types of lines:

- for the citizens of this very country (or a group of countries, e.g. all EU citizens in any European airport use the same lines);

- for foreigners;

- for diplomats & flight crews.

You, of course, as any other American in a Russian airport, had to follow the "foreigners" line.

Customs control is divided into Green (nothing to declare) and Red (items to declare) channels.

I presume you just went through the Green channel after collecting your luggage - even without noticing that that Red channel exists?  chuckle
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« Reply #8 on: June 24, 2008, 09:45:34 AM »

That reminds me...when I read the signs at Passport Control there are usually three.

Diplomats...which everyone seems to use anyway.
Passport Control...self explanatory.

Electronic Passport Holders Only???  That one always makes me wonder.  Can anyone explain? 
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« Reply #9 on: June 24, 2008, 09:46:28 AM »


Where are the lines that divide the lanes? 

The white line that divides traffic in each direction is there, but what about the line that separates my lane from the lane next to me?


If Russian drivers don't care much about "double line" that separates directions, you think they'd care about lines separating lanes of the same direction - even if the lines would be painted more often than once a year?  chuckle


 I found out later that Russia had instituted mandatory seat belts and that the police were out enforcing this new law with a vigor.  The penalty was something like 35 rubles.  Not expensive, more a hassle.


It actually is 500 roubles for the driver and 100 roubles for the passenger.
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« Reply #10 on: June 24, 2008, 09:49:47 AM »


Electronic Passport Holders Only??? 

That one always makes me wonder.  Can anyone explain? 


Yes - new passports with the built-in microchips, where all your biometrical & passport data is recorded.

I heard USA were lobbying the idea of making those passports obligatory for Russian citizens who want to visit USA starting from 2010?

So far a Russian citizen can choose whether to get an "old" travel passport with not much hassle, 400 roubles and 4 weeks waiting time - or a "chip" one, with long lines to take biometrics (usually only one police lab per city), about one and half thousand roubles, and 2-3 months of wait...
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« Reply #11 on: June 24, 2008, 10:07:23 AM »

Ahhh thanks.  Sign should say Biometric passport then. 
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« Reply #12 on: June 24, 2008, 04:54:40 PM »


Ahhh thanks.  Sign should say Biometric passport then. 


Are many things in Russia what they should be?  innocent
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« Reply #13 on: June 24, 2008, 09:15:13 PM »

Quote from: Greyscales
Vlad!  Oh my god am I glad you were here to meet me!!!!

Vlad is an older gentleman – I'm not sure of his age – maybe his late 40's or early 50's...  I am a terrible judge of such things.  The man was very thin but with a hand shake that left no doubt he was solid muscle.

Vlad speaks a little English and a little German – or so I was told.  I was a little reserved at riding with him.  Not for fear of anything, but because I'm not one to really talk much to strangers.  But this wonderful man did everything he could to put me at ease – right from the moment we met!

We'd retrieved my bags from the carousel and Vlad insisted on grabbing the biggest, heaviest single bag.  I thought he was crazy at first – I'd lugged these bags enough already to regret packing them, and here's Vlad grabbing my bags and hustling me out to his car.

Vlad is indeed a gentleman, he always grapples my biggest bag also! He and I have now developed our own language! A bit of English, a bit of Russian and a lot of German - he served near Berlin under the Red Army - I learned basic German in school - my wife looks nonplussed when we are sharing a cigarette outside and howling laughing; but he and I understand each other perfectly!  chuckle

Vlad is the guy when he came to England, I said, "Bring a few cartons of cigarettes with you," he unloaded forty-five cartons of cigarettes onto my living room floor. In England they are $100 a carton - in Russia they are less than $10 a carton - what a guy!  party0011
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« Reply #14 on: June 24, 2008, 09:27:19 PM »

Vlad is the guy when he came to England, I said, "Bring a few cartons of cigarettes with you," he unloaded forty-five cartons of cigarettes onto my living room floor. In England they are $100 a carton - in Russia they are less than $10 a carton - what a guy!  party0011

DUDE!  Don't you know cigarettes will stunt your growth???


GS
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